A COLLECTION OF ALEXANDER MCQUEEN'S SKETCHBOOKS SOLD AT AN AUCTION

It’s been 14 years since the passing of the visionary designer, but his impact is still rippling through the fashion world and among the fans of his work. Last week, those born under a lucky star and with a fortune to spend had the opportunity to bid on some of McQueen’s sketchbooks from the '90s and early '00s, featuring designs from his time at Central St. Martins as well as his Givenchy years. They provide a unique look into the creative process behind McQueen’s work, along with some everyday inspirations, including scraps of materials and Polaroids still attached.

The sketchbooks were auctioned off for £20k to an anonymous buyer (hopefully someone who will truly appreciate having them in their collection) at Kerry Taylor Auctions, which specialises in vintage fashion, fine antique costumes, and textiles (I highly recommend checking out some pieces in their collection on their website). As mentioned, the sketchbooks include McQueen’s early designs as well as the Givenchy Spring-Summer 2001 studio book, which is particularly special as it marks his last collection for the fashion house. It includes 47 designs, of which only 34 made it to the runway. Along with the designs, there are swatches of experimental fabrics, photographic inspirations from other cultures, and prototypes of some spiky corsets and wedding dresses. There are also photos of the studio and some of the staff working with him, which provide a personal insight into his creative process.

Shockingly, the £20k price tag for the sketchbooks, which offer an intimate look into McQueen’s work, is actually a steal when we consider some of the previous auctions of his original sketches, which went under the hammer for £700-£1000 per page. Back in 2020, a sketchbook with 36 original designs sold for $50k. Of course, this decreasing price trend does not apply to McQueen’s archive pieces, which can sell for well over £100k.

The question to ask is what does this say about our attitudes towards fashion and art. Alexander McQueen learnt tailoring at 16 but when asked by legendary Bobby Hillson if he draws at all, his answer was that he’s always drawn. So why do we seem to be putting less value in his sketches as years go by? Should we put less value on items that show the process of creating legendary designs or should we exhibit them alongside the final product to appreciate the hard work that was put into putting the final product on the runway?

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